Only 9847 hours to go…
So today is the first day that I’ve let the foamie rest. After today I think the foamie has seen his last days.
When Riles dropped off the foamie he brought along with him this 6’3 glimmering white board. I didn’t want to have anything to do with it because of course in my eyes, I was no where near ready.
Well the past month or so my surfing has gotten way better. Probably thanks to the gym along with the foam board. The foamie caught everything. When I say everything, I mean everything. Because of that, I was able to work on other things other than struggling to catch a wave on my waterlogged board. Foamie introduced me to the sensation of what trimming really is and what it feels like to touch the face of the wave. I don’t even care if it was only yay high. I did it and it felt good.
Everything I caught, I had an opportunity to practice actually doing something with the wave. Then today, I took out the 6’3. I wasn’t sure if I actually would be able to do anything but I decided it was time to try.
And try I motherfuckin’ did. I realised the whitewater wasn’t going to push this board (even though at times I secretly hoped it would haha), so off I went on the search for the spot where it looked realistic to take off.
I stood up a couple times piddling around to get the feel…then it happened. Off I went, angling my board right after seeing it breaking on my left, and there I went. Just taking in the small corner of the wave. Mind blown all over the water and I wanted more of it.
Then I felt the hunger…the hunger for more. My adrenaline was sky high and I could feel my heart pounding so hard because you have to on these things. On the foam, I’d take a couple good strokes and off I went. Not on this board. My heart felt like it was going to jump out of my chest and I thought to myself, if I had a heart attack at that moment, I would have died a happy woman.
I probably still looked like a crazy kook out there, but I didn’t care. Nothing mattered until I caught another wave. I think I missed more waves than I did actually catch ones. But the ones that I did, it felt glorious. I thought to myself, “how could I get even more obsessed with surfing?!” and “this is what it feels like to be on crack”.
Only 9848 hours and 20 minutes to go…
Had to go. I’ve been being lazy at the gym lately. Can’t remember either what I did during this sesh…most likely had fun.
Only 9849 hours and 40 minutes to go…
I’m going to be completely honest. I’ve been backed up and I’m sitting here trying to remember this session. I have no idea what happened today, but looking back through my texts…I definitely surfed today haha.
Only 9850 hours and 50 minutes to go…
Welp…Erina came to the westside to get her surf on….
SHITTY out. Horrible. Just absolutely shitty. lol
Waves were coming from every which way and the current was strong.
Worst day out by far, felt like a noob all over again haha
At least I got to surf with Erina again haha.
Only 9852 hours and 10 minutes to go…
I befriended Max through a mutual friend of ours. He’s been visiting from NY staying with Beefcake the past two months to see if he wants to live out here for work.
Max wanted to surf. So surf we did.
Conditions were on point. The sky was clear, barely any wind. Waves were manageable and easy to paddle out. Fun fun fun day and felt like I killed it today.